This story complements the Culinary
Journeys TV series, airing monthly on CNN International. See more of the show
here: Share photos of your own Culinary Journeys on Instagram with the hashtag
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(CNN)You'd think a city as
cosmopolitan as San Francisco would have better things to do with its Saturday
morning than go all caramelized bananas over a muffin.
But wander past a nondescript shop
front on Larkin Street in the city's Tenderloin district at around 7 a.m. and
you'll see a group of people in the thrall of their latest foodie discovery.
So much so that that they're willing
to line up for 90 minutes or more to get their hands on one.
Well,
two, to be precise.
That's because the muffin in
question isn't exactly a muffin -- it's a cruffin -- and because demand for the
things at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse has been so great since its debut that owners
have limited sales to just two per customer, so as not to disappoint their
growing fan base.
You'd think they were selling Led
Zeppelin reunion tickets.
"It's a myth of a pastry, it's
the unicorn of pastries," says Ry Stephen, 28, Mr. Holmes Bakehouse
co-owner and pastry chef.
"You can't seem to get it. You
definitely have to wait in line."
It's been this way since the shop
opened in a notoriously seedy part of town in November 2014 -- "This isn't
Nob Hill, it's not typically where tourists would stroll around," says
Stephen -- with early demand driven by a savvy social media campaign.
"It was a trip, the first
morning it was pouring rain," says co-owner and entrepreneur Aaron Caddel,
23, who runs the business end of the operation.
"We were expecting no business
-- this is a pretty ghetto part of town in the middle of the Tenderloin -- but
at 7 a.m. there were 10 people waiting in line."
What's
a cruffin?
A cruffin is a cross between a
croissant and a muffin.
It comes in the shape of a muffin,
but the flakey layers of "laminated" (with French butter) brioche
dough give it the pull-apart texture of a croissant.
The cruffin is based on an old
French pastry -- Stephen didn't invent the cruffin, but he does claim to have
brought it to San Francisco -- and requires a labor-intensive process of
rolling and cutting dough over and over.
"Its 80% technique," says
Stephen, who spent countless trial-and-error hours perfecting his own.
Cruffins at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse are
filled with a different flavor each day.
San Francisco icons: Cruffin and
Transamerica Pyramid Center.
You never know what you'll get --
s'mores, strawberry milkshake, peppermint, caramel cream.
After apprenticing in his native
Melbourne, Stephen spent two years working in a pastry shop in Paris before
marrying an American and relocating to San Francisco, where he met California
native entrepreneur Caddell.
His kitchen talents stretch beyond
the cruffin.
Mr. Holmes Bakehouse -- the name
comes from one of Stephen's mother's two cats, Sherlock and Holmes -- draws
crowds for its other concoctions.
"No one does a donut like we
do," says Stephen.
He makes his with flavors like
vanilla cheesecake, passion fruit curd, caramelized banana and strawberry
cream.
Other popular items include an
outstanding cookie made with caramel, chocolate and cocoa nibs and the
California croissant, which is stuffed with smoked salmon, pickled ginger and
wasabi and comes with a packet of soy sauce.
Winning
design
The third partner, designer/co-owmer
Aron Tzimas, 28, another Australian, is responsible for the gleaming white look
of the business, which has also attracted fans.
Tzimas conceived everything from the
"I Got Baked in San Francisco" pink neon sign inside the shop -- it's
not exactly the Golden Gate Bridge but it's becoming a "must pose"
backdrop for Instagrammers -- to the elegant carry-out boxes that have also
become a sensation.
Tzimas' box was inspired by the
design of the rich packaging at the fictional Mendl's Bakery from Wes
Anderson's "The Grand Budapest Hotel."
Mr. Holmes Bakehouse co-owners Aaron
Caddel (right) and Ry Stephen bask in the glow of their shop's neon popularity.
"I wanted this box to be like a
gift," says Tzimas. "People are collecting them, stacking them in
their houses."
Like Stephen, Tzimas' detailed
approach to his end of the business has inspired what's starting to look like a
cult following.
He confirmed this one recent
Saturday morning while looking outside at another excited crowd lined up
literally around the block.
"What we have here, this is not
normal," he said.
Mr. Holmes Bakehouse, 1042 Larkin
St., San Francisco; +1 415 829 7700; opens at 7 a.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.
Saturday-Sunday, closes when items are sold out; cruffins come out at 9 a.m.
daily and had run out by noon on the Friday and Saturday CNN visited, though
other items remained.
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